Not Fade Away In the preface to Kitchen Confidential, Anthony Bourdain wrote this: "As for me, I have always liked to think of myself as the Chuck Wepner of cooking. Chuck was a journeyman 'contender', referred to as the 'Bayonne Bleeder' back in the Ali-Frazier era. He could always be counted on to last a few solid rounds without going down, giving as good as he got. I admired his resilience, his steadiness, his ability to get it together, to take a beating like a man." Well, Chuck is still here, and Tony isn't, but you can tell that Tony knew he was in a fight for his life. When I first heard of, and read the work of Anthony Bourdain, I'm afraid I wrote him off as a bit of a hot mess, writing stylishly about other hot messes. It's a thing I have less interest in, as I've gotten older. His propensity for seeking out the exotic was likewise not my style. But after awhile, I realized that there was more to him than that, perhaps well characte...